Active functional ingredients

In international pharmacology, its healing, soothing, calming, moisturising and skin repair capacities are well-known.

An allergen is a substance that although generally harmless to most people, in some allergic or particularly sensitive individuals, it can cause allergic reactions of various types. It must be specified that any reaction depends on both personal sensitivity and the percentage contained in the product and which comes into contact.

Developments in research and analysis methods have enabled the identification of substances potentially responsible for allergies. In actual fact, despite tests guaranteeing skin compatibility of cosmetic products, some substances can still cause an allergic reaction through contact (redness, itching, irritation, etc.) in people particularly sensitive to them.

To this end, the new provisions of Directive 2003/15/EC2 establish the obligation to specify on the cosmetic product label, if any of 26 specified perfumed substances are included. These substances are, in fact, considered to be responsible for the onset of allergic reactions through contact when more than a certain concentration of them is included in the product. This "sensitive" threshold varies depending on whether the product is intended to be rinsed off or not. This obligation can be considered as a public health measure that does not aim to prohibit these substances, but rather to inform consumers about their inclusion in cosmetics.

In actual fact, these substances play a key role as they help give the products containing them a specific aroma. Allergens, which have their own characteristic odour, are amongst the main ingredients of a perfume, which can be defined as a blend of odorous substances (on average from 30 to 50 different substances), used for cosmetic purposes, to make personal hygiene products more pleasant in body care and substances for domestic use.

This provision is very important because on the one hand, it helps doctors, facilitating the diagnosis of allergies through contact, whilst on the other hand it enables consumers allergic to some perfumed substances to identify their presence in products and thereby avoid using them.

Perfumed substances exist in nature, but can also be obtained through synthesis. More specifically, 16 out of the 26 substances identified can be present in their natural state (e.g. essence of rose contains 6 of these allergens in its composition: geraniol, citronellol, citral, eugenol, farnesol and linalool).

Ammonium is a chemical compound with the formula NH₃. It is found in small quantities in nature, in volcanic exhalations, in addition to being present in the atmosphere of the sun and other stars. For commercial or industrial purposes, it is obtained by means of chemical synthesis.

It is a volatile substance with a pungent odour that is highly characteristics and irritates the breathing apparatus.It is used in hair dyes to swell the hair and open the scales. In doing so, the pigment can thus adhere to the interior of the hair shaft, making for lasting colour.It can cause allergic reactions or other types of scalp irritation; it irritates skin and eyes in addition to potentially causing asthma and breathing difficulties.

This is why the trend is to replace it with other, less volatile, less irritating substances for the breathing apparatus and skin.

In Vebix Color line products, ammonium has been replaced with ethanolamine (INCI: ethanolamine). This substance has the same capacity to swell the hair but does not have the unpleasantly pungent odour of ammonium.

INCI: Oxido reductases

Oxido reductase is an enzyme that is naturally present in the organism.

INCI: apigenin

Apigenin is an antioxidant present in the leaves of celery and parsley. Another good, natural source is found in chamomile leaves, of which it is the main active ingredient responsible for its spasmolytic properties.    It acts on the hair by stimulating the microcirculation at the scalp and hair bulb, improving tissue oxygenation and the supply of nutrients that are essential to the development and strengthening of the hair follicle, thereby helping increase nourishment and oxygenation that are often insufficient in situations of hair atrophy (poor growth).

INCI: Biotinoyl tripeptide-1

This tripeptide is a highly specific synthetic molecule comprising 3 amino acids: glycine, histidine and lysine. It stimulates the cell metabolism and hair growth along with the proliferation of hair bulbs. It therefore delays the effects of capillary ageing, consequently preventing hair loss.

INCI: C12-13 alkyl lactate

This is a derivate of lactic acid with good deodorising properties. It acts as an enzyme inhibitor, interfering with the action of the bacterial enzymes in the armpit, responsible for the formation of unpleasant odour following perspiration. It therefore has the property to reduce bodily odours with long-lasting results. It also protects and moisturises the skin.

INCI: Caffeine

Caffeine is a natural substance that is part of the group of methylxanthines present in the plants of coffee, cocoa, tea, cola, guarana and mate and in the drinks made from them.

The great popularity of drinks containing caffeine (tea and coffee first and foremost) makes this psychoactive substance the most widespread worldwide.

When included in cosmetic formulas, this active ingredient is an effective way of activating the metabolism of adipocytes, in particular by indirectly stimulating the activation of the enzyme that catalyses the demolition of stored fats, resulting in a reduction of the lipid content in adipocytes.

Topical use of methylxanthine is therefore recommended for the treatment of localised adipose deposits and, therefore, cellulite.

INCI: Carnitine

Carnitine is an amino acid that the body uses to convert fats to energy.In cosmetics, carnitine increases the metabolism of adipocytes in the dermis, boosting the local microcirculation and improving the appearance of "orange peel" skin.

Its action stimulates a greater use of fats and therefore assists the metabolism of lipid substrates, consequently reducing them.Various studies have shown the protective action of this substance on the endothelium and smooth muscles of the blood vessels, improving supply to the peripheral limbs. It is precisely this latter function that makes carnitine particularly suitable for the cosmetic treatment of cellulite.

In vari studi tale sostanza ha dimostrato un’azione protettiva sull’endotelio e sulla muscolatura liscia dei vasi sanguigni, con una migliore irrorazione degli arti periferici. È proprio quest’ultima funzione che rende la carnitina particolarmente adatta per il trattamento cosmetico della cellulite.

INCI: ceramide-3

Ceramides are natural lipids that are normally present in various different regions of the body, such as in the brain, nails, hair and skin. It is precisely here that the act by “binding” the cells of the epidermis, keeping the skin barrier structure intact.

They maintain and improve skin elasticity and moisture levels, regulating cell renewal and strengthening the barrier function against attack from external agents. Their use in anti-age products helps compensate for the natural loss of ceramides from the epidermis, strengthening its structure. They therefore leave skin more compact and better toned.

In hair care, ceramide-3 is able to repair damaged hair, protecting it from chemical attack or the damages caused by overly-aggressive detergents. It also prevents damage by UV rays to keratin, keeping the hair structure intact and giving the shaft renewed tone and vigour.

INCI: Ceramide 2, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide

Dermaxyl is a complex formed by the association of ceramide-2 (the cementing agent of the outermost layer of the skin, the layer which preserves skin and the barrier function intact) and a peptide derivative called matrikine, formed from the union of 5 amino acids acting as anti-age, wrinkle-smoother and skin-repairer. Dermaxyl stimulates communication between cells and helps ensure cell repair in mature and damaged skin. This peptide acts by recalling fibroblasts and monocytes (some of the cells involved in the physiological skin repair processes) at the place where the damage has occurred, focussing cell regeneration in a selective, specific fashion.

Innovative molecule for its properties to stimulate hair growth, slowing the fall.
In particular, it shall:

    -strengthens the root of the hair, preventing the stiffening of collagen (which causes the choking of the root itself resulting   in hair loss);
   - increases the thickness of the hair, slowing the fall as more strongly rooted to the scalp;
   - stimulates the growth phase (Anagen) of the hair

Free radicals are chemically very reactive molecules originating from small amounts of oxygen during metabolic processes in the human body. Such molecules are able to damage cell structures such as plasma membrane, DNA and proteins.  The negative action of free radicals results in acceleration of the processes of cellular aging, damage to the immune system, predisposition to the onset of numerous diseases and skin photo aging.
Free radicals are generated not only by metabolic processes within the human organism, but also by environmental factors (pollution, excessive and uncontrolled exposure to sunlight, excess alcohol, cigarette smoke).

Our body is able to control the activity of free radicals through endogenous antioxidant substances and exogenous antioxidant substances introduced with the diet (vitamins A, C, E, carotenoids, polyphenols, anthocyanins and flavonoids, contained in large quantities in fruits and vegetables). At the skin level, the use of antioxidant substances, plant extracts or pure vitamins, allows the prevention of premature skin aging, the appearance of expression wrinkles, the loss of tone and elasticity of the skin, as well as the onset of skin dyschromia and a dull and lifeless complexion.

Hyaluronic acid consists of alternate units of glucuronic acid and acetylglucosamine and is one of the major ligands of connective tissue. For its chemical structure has the ability to bind water and other substances creating a transparent moisturizing and protective gel for the skin.
Hyaluronic acid is particularly present in the dermis, giving the skin the properties of elasticity and softness.

INCI: galactosyl fructose

This active ingredient is a complex of phospholipids and sugars, fructose and galactose in particular, which enables a long-lasting, deep-down moisturising action, leaving skin more elastic. This is thanks to the action of the phospholipids, which act as membrane conveyors, enabling a greater penetration of sugars through the epidermis. The effect is therefore emolliating and softening, right through to the deepest layers of the epidermis.

INCI: hydrolyzed keratin

Keratin is a protein consisting of long chains of amino acids in which cysteine prevails and in which various vitamins and oligo elements are interlinked. Diffused throughout the animal kingdom, in man keratin is the main constituent of the superficial layer of the epidermis, bodily hair, hair and nails.

Hydrolysed keratin is obtained from virgin Merino wool by means of enzymes. It has the capacity to fix to the entire cuticle of hair, increasing thickness and thereby making it stronger and fuller-bodied. It strengthens and restores instantly. It is the cosmetology treatment par excellence. The physiological appearance, volume, ease of combing, softness and shine will be a constant success for all weak, damaged and severely impoverished hair.

INCI: hydrolyzed lupin protein

Lupin is a legume that has been well-known and popular since ancient times in the Mediterranean Basin and the Middle East for its power to improve soil fertility.

In the cosmetics industry, lupin seeds are treated using biotechnological processes to obtain small protein derivates (5-6 amino acids) with excellent potential in anti-age cosmetics.

The hydrolysed lupin protein acts by inhibiting the enzymes that break down the collagen and the skin’s structural proteins and which are therefore responsible for skin ageing. This active ingredient can penetrate the skin deep-down, preventing photoageing and skin inflammation due to exposure to the sun.

INCI: polydodecanamideaminium triazadiphenylethenesulfonate

The wrinkle filler complex is a new “illuminating” ingredient that emits and diffuses light to reduce the depth of wrinkles and skin blemishes. This active ingredient consists of a fluorescent material, fixed to micro particles that are invisible to the naked eye and which fix into the actual line of the wrinkle. Here it captures the sun’s radiation, re-emitting a band of light that illuminates the areas of shadow on the face, such as wrinkles, dilated pores and minor blemishes, reducing their visibility. The optical effect achieved by this innovative complex gives the face a new light with skin appearing smoother and more even, illuminated.

INCI: palmitoyl pentapeptide-4

Matrixyl is a micro-protein of biotechnological origin, consisting of a sequence of 5 bio-mimetic amino acids. These provide for a natural reproduction of the end part of collagen and are thus referred to as micro-collagen. When Matrixyl is applied to the skin, it reaches the fibroblasts, the cells responsible for collagen synthesis, activating their production to effectively restore “tautness” to the skin’s tissues where wrinkles have appeared. It acts naturally at the very heart of the epidermis, reawakening cells and stimulating the synthesis of the main support structures of the dermis and epidermis. Skin is toned from within, resulting in a smoother, younger appearance.

INCI: Menthol

For years milk proteins, particularly similar to those of the skin, have been used to make moisturizing and restructuring cosmetics.
These proteins act by supporting and maintaining the vitality of skin dermis cells, with activation of cell metabolism and collagen synthesis.
The regenerative cellular effect therefore leads to an increase in skin elasticity and epidermal thickness. The skin will be more toned and hydrated, more elastic and vital.

Oleanolic acid is an active ingredient we find in the plant world and particularly in olive leaf extract. Inhibits the 5-alpha-reductase enzyme, which is indirectly responsible for the reduction in the hair’s life cycle as well as being one of the main causes of alopecia.

INCI: Panthenol

Also known as provitamin B5, pantothenic acid or panthenol, it is present in large quantities in baker’s yeast and royal jelly.

It is the vitamin that is most used in the cosmetics industry. It has significant moisturising properties, in fact, able to stimulate cell regeneration and repair and soothe skin, mucous and hair. It is also able to greatly improve even very damaged skin, making it an effective restorer of balance to skin and mucous.

In cosmetics, it is used in products designed to treat, cleanse and care for skin and hair. It is present in a great many anti-irritation products against skin eruptions and skin dryness in general.

Its efficacy on hair has been shown in various aspects: it is an emollient and treatment, moisturising the scalp, conditioning hair keratin meaning that it is often used in conditioners due to its ability to lubricate and polish the hair.

Para-phenylenediamine (PPD) is the most important dye used for permanent hair dyes and the third most common ingredient after perfumed essences and preservatives able to cause contact dermatitis in the field of cosmetics.

In most cases, the reaction to the dye consists merely of itching and reddening to the scalp. In more severe cases, the dye can cause severe eczema and pain. The area of skin affected by the reaction can vary and may not correspond to exactly the same area to which the dye was applied. In even more severe cases, oedema may be seen around the eyes, scaling of the skin around the ears, face and neck subsequently extending to the whole body.

The people most sensitive to this type of allergen tend to be hairdressers and women (rarely men) as they are more likely to come into frequent contact with hair dyes.

Contact dermatitis caused by PPD is seen in the form of itching, scaly patches, oedema and erythematous, which often extend from the scalp to the forehead, neck, eyelids and face. In hairdressers, skin lesions are often limited to the hands. The incidence of these reactions is, moreover, increasing steadily as an ever-greater number of people, and young people in particular, are now using these products.

In the Vebix Color line, PPD has been replaced with a derivative (INCI name: N,N-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine), which has a different chemical structure and has been specifically chosen for its better skin tolerability.

INCI: Saccharide isomerate

Pentavitin is a complex of sugars that is very similar to the natural constituents of skin. It acts firmly on the corneal layer, where it is able to bind strongly with keratin, much like a magnet, forming a constantly moisturising, protective film.

The complex sugars comprising this active ingredient have the capacity to bind numerous water molecules, which makes pentavitin a skin moisture level regulator able to form a sort of moisturising film that provides the skin with permanent protection.

INCI: Hydrolized algin, Chlorella vulgaris extract, Maris aqua

Pheoydrane is a complex of polysaccharides and amino acids taken from the marine environment. They strengthen the skin's natural barrier, helping it fix water in the corneal layer and thereby preventing dehydration.

This active ingredient contains a single-cell algae, Chlorella Vulgaris, which can be found growing on the surfaces of lakes. It contains beta-carotene, vitamins and amino acids, making for a mix that is essential to the cell metabolism and enables protein synthesis. Chlorella also preserves collagen and elastin fibres, an essential part of the skin, from the enzymes responsible for their decay.

This algae is rich in mineral salts and marine micro-nutrients, which are cyto-energising as they stimulate enzymatic catalysis processes. Chlorella algae extract has a regenerative, remineralising action on the skin, playing an important role in maintaining the anatomic and functional integrity of the skin. Chlorella extract also promotes the restructuring of the epidermis, the microcirculation and protects the skin from UV rays.

INCI: hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin

Phytoderma lifting is a concentrated solution of cyclodextrin derived from starch obtained using biotechnology through the action of a specific enzyme. It is therefore a 100% plant origin product. Thanks to the cyclical structure typical of cyclodextrin, it has significant tensor effects and moisturising properties, making it a valid ingredient in treating mature skin or skin showing the first signs of skin ageing.

INCI: piroctone olamina

This active ingredient, which is widely used in cosmetic products to treat seborrhoea and dandruff, plays an important role as a local antiseptic, even at small concentrations.

The action of Piroctone olamine, which has great affinity for keratin-rich tissues such as the skin and bodily hair, completes the anti-inflammatory action of other active ingredients. It is highly recommended in cleansing products designed for greasy hair, as it acts as an anti-dandruff, sebum regulator and broad-spectrum antimicrobial product. It also has antioxidant powers. Piroctone olamine helps restore the natural microbial balance of the skin.

INCI: natto gum

Plant collagen is a protein obtained through soy fermentation. The main components of phyto collagen are glutamic acid and a fraction of fructose. This active ingredient of plant origin mimics the effects of natural collagen, the main protein comprising the dermis, helping make up for physiological production, which reduces naturally as we age. It has particularly good moisturising properties, fighting loss of water through the epidermis. It helps support and enhance the resistance of the skin structure as a whole.

Resorcinol is the common name for a chemical substance used in hair dyes as an intermediary for the production of colouring substances through a chemical reaction.   Literature data has highlighted the negative effects of this substance on our organism.   It is a harmful compound that irritates skin and eyes.

In Vebix Color line products, resorcinol has been replaced with succedaneum (INCI: 2-methylresorcinol and 4-chlororesorcinol), which have been found to be better tolerated by the skin, enabling a more delicate colouring of the hair.

Salicylic acid is called 2-hydroxybenzoic acid and comes from the enzymatic hydrolysis of salicin, glucoside salicoside extracted from willow (Salix alba). For its exfoliating and smoothing properties it is used in cosmetics to prepare chemical scrubs or peelings. Applied on the skin in fact acts as keratolytic, that is, it is able to selectively break the protein chain of keratin, abundantly present in the corneocytes. By exerting no effect on other proteins, salicylic acid is able to exfoliate and destroy only the cells of the stratum corneum.

At the skin level, salicylic acid decreases the forces of cohesion of the corneocytes: in doing so, the desquamation of hyperpigmented keratinocytes is fostered, while encouraging cell renewal. The final effect promoted by salicylic acid is surprising: the "new" keratinocytes, being less rich in melanic pigment, give the skin a uniform, smooth and bright appearance.

Salicylic acid is indicated in the following circumstances: papuled acne, rosacea, dark spots on the skin related to photoaging, dandruff, psoriasis, hyperkeratosis in general.

INCI: dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline

This is a plant origin amino acid complex which has proven to be a major aid in preventing the signs of time on the skin.

It is obtained by binding to hydroxyproline, an amino acid that is extremely important to skin moisture levels, a molecule of plant origin that can convey this important amino acid through the skin.

By acting directly within the skin structure, the complex plays a key role in collagen synthesis and in its arrangement in fibres to give the skin new tone and compactness.

With its long-lasting, toning moisturising of the skin, the complex sculpts the facial contours, correcting imperfections and smoothing out wrinkles. A promotion mechanism with regards to collagen fibres prevents deterioration and stimulates remodelling, contraction and elasticity. The result is a strengthened, toned epidermal tissue.

INCI: Sericin

Sericin is a protein obtained from silk and is particularly rich in serine, an amino acid that has an affinity with the structural proteins of the skin, is highly hydrophilic and is able to withhold water and regulate skin moisture levels.

This characteristic influences the cosmetic action of sericin. In actual fact, thanks to its highly hydrophilic nature, it develops great affinity with the structural proteins of the skin and hair, such as keratin. Sericin is able to thereby form a protective film, leaving skin elastic and toned.

It is the oligosaccharide obtained by biotechnology from the fermentation of the microorganism Sinorhizobium meliloti. Improves the state of hydration of the skin and its visco-elastic properties by stimulating the action of keratinocytes and dermoblasts. It is particularly suitable for the treatment of delicate and fragile skin.

It is a molecule of natural origin and represents the precursor of sterols; it is one of the main constituents of human sebum. It owes its name to what was once the main source of obtaining, shark liver oil. Today we prefer to use Squalene from vegetable sources, such as olive oil or wheat germ. Due to its natural affinity for skin, Squalene easily penetrates through the skin and forms a protective film that limits dehydration and facilitates breathing of the skin. It is mainly used for its emollient and moisturizing characteristics as well as for its ability to neutralize free radicals responsible for skin aging. Very effective in dry and flaky skin situation.

Si suddividono in filtri chimici e filtri fisici.

I filtri UV chimici (ETILESILMETOSSICINNAMATO, OCTOCRILENE, METILENE-BIS-BENZOTRIAZOLIL TETRAMETILBUTILFENOLO) sono sostanze solubili in olio o acqua che grazie alla loro struttura si distribuiscono sulla superficie cutanea e assorbono la luce ultravioletta, trasformandola in calore.

I filtri fisici (BIOSSIDO DI TITANIO) sono sostanze insolubili che assorbono e riflettono i raggi UV sulla superficie della pelle.

Molti prodotti solari contengono una combinazione di vari filtri, per raggiungere un alto fattore di protezione e coprire lo spettro più ampio possibile di radiazione ultravioletta.

This active ingredient consists of a small peptide, 3 amino acids joined together to form a unique sequence able to mimic the physiological mechanism of collagen production. At the skin level, Syn coll penetrates very quickly in depth, stimulating the synthesis of new collagen, smoothing wrinkles, moisturizing and toning the skin. It is a proven active substance, suitable for the treatment of any type of wrinkle, in all anti-age treatments.

INCI: zinc chloride, calcium chloride, cupric chloride, ferric chloride, magnesium chloride, manganese chloride.

Also called "sugar of resurrection", trealose is a molecule unique in nature, able to return cyclically to life, desert plants that would otherwise succumb to drought, activating a process of "stabilisation". When the water begins to fail, their structures are as lyophilized by trealose and covered by an invisible film that isolates and protects them from the external environment, but ready to dissolve in contact with humidity: then the plants are reborn to new life.

This sugar is a very important cosmetic super-moisturizing active ingredient that acts over time for non-stop and long-lasting hydration for the benefit of the skin. It creates a film that also acts as a protection against free radicals and counteracts degenerative cellular processes, making precious the use in the dermocosmetic field. At the skin level, in fact, trealose envelops water molecules capturing hydration and keeping it constant. And at the same time protects the skin from the most common pollutants and slows down aging processes.

INCI: triclosan

Triclosan is a substance that acts on a great many bacteria, used now for a long time as an antiseptic and disinfectant. It acts by blocking an enzyme required to enable bacteria to grow and it only takes very small quantities to have an excellent antibacterial action, both on the formulation itself and on the skin and for oral hygiene. In cosmetics, it can be used up to concentrations of 0.3%. It is a very common antimicrobial product used in Italy and elsewhere in a great many of everyday products such as soaps, deodorants, household detergents, toothpastes and mouthwashes for the prevention and treatment of plaque and gum disease.

Hydrolyzed wheat proteins are natural derivatives of wheat grains and constitute a unique moisturizing complex, able to penetrate within the skin structures, binding water and offering filming properties and the right water balance to the skin.
Wheat protein hydrolysates are also used in shampoo and shower shampoo formulation for their ability to reduce the irritant power of surfactants.

INCI: citrus medica limonum extract, cucumis sativus extract

This is a mix of active ingredients such as lemon extract enriched with citric acid and combined with a special fraction of cucumber extract.

The complex can lighten and illuminate the skin thanks to the capacity of the lemon and cucumber extract to inhibit the enzymes responsible for the melanin formation process. It also strengthens the screening properties of the sun filters included in the formula, preventing erythema and oedema consequent to exposure to the sun, illuminating dark skins and lightening skin marks.

INCI: zinc oxide

Zinc oxide is a mineral compound, the significant soothing and anti-reddening properties of which mean that is commonly used in medicine and dermatology, in creams against reddening, such as nappy rash, or to prevent bed sores.

It is highly absorbent meaning that it is also much used in deodorants as it is able to capture the volatile odours that form in the armpit following the oxidation of the fatty acids present, acting by sequestering odours.